It was clearly the off season. We were driving through the wine country south of Santiago, but there was nobody around. Something about that late-fall May time frame, I supposed. Still, the scenery was beautiful and it felt calming to be driving through empty vineyards. The Andes were to our backs, always watching us with a friendly smile, mildly interested in our journey.

I wanted to see the Pacific Ocean from a Chilean point of view, so we planned on over-nighting in Valparaiso. I have to admit that before this trip I knew nothing about Valparaiso. I knew we were going to be in Santiago and drive around a bit, and Valparaiso looked like the obvious choice if we wanted to check out the ocean.

We booked a room at the Sheraton (it was right on the ocean), and we timed our drive to end up there. We arrived in the late afternoon while the sun was still in the sky. Upon check in, the front desk clerk told us about the hotel and the great restaurant and outdoor bar. I was proud of my Spanish during this interaction, but even so, there was a lot of miming and gesturing. It appeared we had arrived just in time.

I don’t think I can do justice to the sunset we witnessed that evening. Sure, I have tons of photos which are breathtaking. Still, nothing conjures up the feeling that overwhelmed me as we sat there, a cool breeze coming off the Pacific, witnessing the magic of nature. The sky went from a light blue to a dull purple while the sun’s vortex of orange sunk slowly towards the ocean. It was as if the sun dared to be ignored. I imagined a diva throwing a fit as she flew down the stairs with her dress billowing behind her in a cascade of oranges. I sat there with my husband feeling insignificant and also majestic at being able to witness such beauty.

Our room was at the end of the hallway, and when I say this hotel was on the ocean, I mean it was literally on the shore hovering over the sea as if was about to sail away. Because of this, the waves crashing on the beach were very audible from our room’s balcony. It was the sound of the power of nature and the awesome intensity of the ocean. That night we slept with the door open so that we could bask in the sound.

The next day we decided to walk around and tour Valparaiso. It was fascinating and gorgeous in an unprecedented way. Once a bustling city for ships traveling around the southern tip of South America, it had fallen on hard times since the development of the Panama Canal. There was street art everywhere depicting political opinions, tongue-in-cheek art, and history. It was like a living art museum everywhere you went.

The buildings in the city were spectacular. There were mansions that had fallen into disrepair and other grand buildings that now housed things such as hostels and cafes. It was as if the city was home to the wealthy who one day decided to pick up their belongings and leave everything to the homeless. There was something about it that captivated me. I wanted to soak up the city’s grunge and succumb to the disarray. As somebody who appreciates newer things and order, it was enlightening how much I gravitated towards my surroundings.

Unfortunately we did not have a lot of time to explore, as we had to head back to Santiago. The power of nature and the power of the past both made their impression, and to this day I think about that experience often. Feeling insignificant compared to the power of nature and the arcs of history can be overwhelming, but something in Valparaiso comforted me.