Many people tell you that Athens is dirty. They go on about how it’s run down and then international economics infiltrates the conversation. Every time I’m told somewhere is grungy or run-down, I inadvertently end up falling in love with it. I’m not sure if this is because my home is New York and so I’m used to a bit of dirt, or if I subconsciously think of pristine places as being too sterile and devoid of authenticity. All I know is that I feel like I understand places that aren’t perfect.

We only spent a day and a half in Athens between our Mykonos and Istanbul stops during a group birthday trip. Everybody else went to Santorini, but Matt and I went to Athens. I felt like I couldn’t go all the way to Greece and not see the Parthenon and experience this ancient city.

People are right, by the way, Athens is rather grungy. There is a lot of graffiti everywhere and some buildings would be seen as ‘run down’. It was incredibly hot when we were there, but we climbed up to the Acropolis and spent a good chunk of time exploring and learning about its history, and that of Athens. It was one of my favorite museum experiences.

Afterwards, we were hungry and looking to get lost among the twisting streets. One mistake I often make in Europe is trying to eat at off times. Usually around 3pm or 4pm I want lunch, but many places don’t serve since it’s in-between meal periods. That afternoon in Athens was no different, and we found ourselves wandering for quite some time. We passed markets, shops and fountains, but the city felt closed. It could’ve been the heat, or just the time of the day. It was as if we were watching somebody sleep and slowly realizing that there’s incredible beauty in that peaceful slumber.

Finally, we rounded a corner and discovered a restaurant that had no patrons, but appeared open. It was very bright and the walls were covered in Americana from the mid-20th century (it was very kitsch). A middle-aged woman working there beckoned us in as we were mulling about. We sat down, grateful to finally relax and eat. She gave us menus and started asking questions about where we were from and how we we were liking Athens. We quickly started talking about more intimate matters as if we were old friends finally reuniting. She was warm and inviting. We all had an instant connection, and Matt and I were enthralled with her stories. We learned of her history in New York with a past lover, how she had come to purchase the restaurant, and her feelings and outlook for Athens. All of that was coupled with incredible Greek food. It was a fantastically perfect afternoon.

Leaving this restaurant was actually rather sad. On this random small street, in a random part of Athens, I had felt a strong connection with a woman, her life, and her food. It felt almost like home, which is an incredible feeling to have in a new country. Food and human connection have such extraordinary powers. I can’t wait to get back to Athens to catch up with her and see how her restaurant is doing.